Deux Chevaux et Charrette Ltd.

2CV Repair & Restoration Specialists

Services

Rolling Chassis Rebuild

The following pictures detail a rolling chassis rebuild for an Australian client leading up to: "Raid Oz#4 2000."

A new chassis was purchased together with an old 2CV. The 2CV running parts were overhauled and fitted to the new chassis, which in turn was strengthened.

If you are interested in having restoration work carried out on your 2CV, please complete our contact form.
Upturned chassis viewed from the front, showing the aluminium sump shield 2.5mm thick. The extra long front towing eye is for an adventure kit type bumper which will be bolted securely through the underside of that bumper.
Same as above, but with the 'T' iron welded in place. The front piece of 5mm plate is only bolted in by the engine mounts and the two 11mm bolts at the front corners.
This 5mm plate is fitted across the chassis at the front and rear axle bolts. Extra long axle bolts are required for fitting the rear plates and the original rear bolts are moved to the front position as they are 8mm longer.

Note:
The metal tags on the lower edge of the chassis to secure the fuel and brake lines (remember chassis is upside down!). The original Citroen ones will not hold piping should it be caught on a branch or bush.
Rear towing eye fitted to original rear bumper mounting points which have been drilled out to 10.5mm and now accept 10mm bolts with heavy washers. This again will have an adventure kit type rear bumper.
View of front chassis showing the inserted 20 gauge plate in the side of the chassis immediately in front of the front axle bolts.

On the original Citroen replacement chassis, there is a strengthening plate immediately behind the front axle bolts.

On standard 2CV chassis (not Dyane) this strengthening plate is not fitted.
Close up of the strengthening plate with 5 puddle welds to secure it to the side wall.
Wurth CU800 is sprayed immediately under the 5mm crossplates to repel any water and (hopefully) dispel any rust forming.
A wider view of above.

Note:
The position of the plate when it returns to chassis level gives initial protection to the petrol tank and allows the vehicle to ride over any obstacles.
It is necessary to change the profile of the two centrepieces of 'T' iron, so that they can allow for the protrusion of the exhaust crossbox.
Fully protected exhaust crossbox which hopefully will never, never, never, ever be punctured as it is necessary to remove the gearbox to remove it.
Completed upside down chassis.
Chassis on side being turned over.
Removal of rear wheel bearing using circular motion impact wrench - Facom NK300 and D83.
Overhauled rear brakes.
Facom 10 tonne portable hydraulic frame press for pressing out kingpins
Refitted petrol tank after steam cleaning and fitted with new tank sender. On this RAID chassis I have supplied a new braided fuel line to go completely to the fuel pump.

Note:
The quarter inch drive universal 11mm socket attached to the underside of the rear axle showing that it is possible to remove the petrol tank with the piece of 5mm plate across the rear axle bolts.
Special tool Facom 40*46L used in conjunction with the weaker Citroen made tool which is used for the fine adjustment and locking of the suspension end collars.

Note:
In the centre of the picture, the two new rubber suspension gaiters and the new suspension collar which is sometimes necessary to fit.
One of the minimum requirements of a RAID car is to be slightly higher at the rear than a city car.
Due to evolution modifications*, it is necessary to remove the last 10-15mm of the suspension tie rod.

Note:
* It is dangerous to make this modification if the vehicle is going to be run empty. You must understand the evolution of the 2CV before making this cut.
The finished product late one night.
Ready to go with additional spare parts.
The final lift-off to Australia.

Restored 2CV Body Shell

In the past, it has been possible to rebuild floor and sills on body shells, but these days with second generation repairs and bad body shells we are tending to replace panels with new metal.

The pictures below are off miscellaneous projects to bring a sequence together for a overhauled body shell.

If you are interested in having restoration work carried out on your 2CV, please complete our contact form.
Once a chassis has been made good it is time to overhaul the body shell and seal it back to the chassis.
The body shell of a 1998 car worked on in 2001. Fortunately this shell only required a partial floor on one side of the car.
Fortunately the seal was in good order and it was easy to spot weld the new floor into position.
It is my policy to reinforce the front triangular box section with some 20 gauge steel to give a second thickness to this vulnerable area.
This shows the extra plate nicely stitched in around the jacking point and rising panel.
As standard, I always place at least 1 cigarette bracket in the car before going to the paint yard and, as a piece of information, I have discovered some nice radio speakers which rivet into the shelf cross member.
This body shell had a larger conversion to the wiring loom and dashboard spec which made the decision of spraying the front bulkhead a much easier one.

It is always nice to spray the inside of the vehicle as well as the out, but if spraying the same colour as the original there is no need to do the bulkhead.
Reassembly well under way with a running driveable car which means that it is half finished.
Rear end completed.

To be continued...